Whatever you do – DO NOT DO what we did! We were nearly arrested!
City breaks are fine but time is precious and needs to be used wisely. This blog exists to ensure you get the best time and value possible – for FREE! – except of course ….. your time in reading this…..
Heidelberg is a beautiful city situated at the western extent of the Neckar River valley. It’s inhabitants claim that it has a warm “the best in Germany” climate and is surrounded by hills of the Black Forest on three sides. To the west is the Rhine rift valley which stretches across to the Vosges mountains in France. The hills and mountains to the north, east and south protect the city from the ravages of strong weather
Staying close to The Crown Plaza Hotel, Bismarck Platz is very handy for the bus and tram network which serves the city. It is also close to the beginning of the longest pedestrian shopping street in Europe. Global brands along with local specialist shops and many ice cream parlours line the route which leads to the Karlstor an 18th century triumphal arch at the eastern extremity. Close to this area is the Tourist Information office.
The HeidelbergCARD is a 1, 2 or 4 day pass which allows you to travel on the buses, trams and railways with in a specified area in the Heidelberg Guide (free with a card) which helpfully sets out all the places of interest and where discounts are available to card holders. This includes the Cabrio Sightseeing bus tours. Top Tip – Buy the card before you book the CabrioBus to get a discount.
The card also gives the holder free access to the first and second stages of the funicular railway which leads to the Schloss – Heidelberg’s most famous castle which, the guide says, is considered to be on of the most romantic places on Earth.
The Cabrio Sightseeing tour is a great way to get an overall glimpse of the best places to see. It has an audio recorded commentary which runs in several languages including English. The tours run every half hour in high season from Karlsplatz and in good weather are open topped. At rush hour we found that towards the end of the journey the commentary became a little flaky as the bus was caught in traffic and the end sentences were cropped as the bus moved away from the building or place in discussion. However the most important piece of commentary related to Frederick (Friedrich) V, Count Palatine of the Rhine and his arranged marriage to Elizabeth Stuart of Scotland. The story goes that though many of these arranged marriages were designed to build strong, powerful and rich dynasties within royal families and the aristocracy across Europe, it was rare that one would result in a union based on love and it is undoubted that Frederick and Elizabeth were very much in love.
The entrance to the funicular railway which is very modern and sleek is close to the Kornmarket. In contrast the rail carriage appears to be very old and heaves its way up the first stage to the Schloss. Heidelberg Castle is a must visit if you are staying in the city. Started in 1200’s, it has grown and been developed over the centuries and even now as a partial ruin it is impressive both in its overall size and remaining structure embellished with roman statues and the Germanic equivalent, fully clothed and with hips thrust forward in an Edmund Blackadder stance.
There is an archway which leads to the confection of a castle. Richly decorated with ornate stonework and sculptures the installation was constructed in one night.
Go into the Castle where drinks and light snacks are served (the Bratwursts are not recommended unless you get there 10 minutes after opening). Apart from the ubiquitous toilets there is a screen showing the development of the castle over the centuries. There is also a monumentally massive wooden wine cask on show.
In addition to the Schloss, wide pathways lead to a once ornate cultivated garden area which even today is a large open grassed area surrounded by trees. A Romanesque statue reclining in rocks within a shallow pond lazily guards the entrance to a grotto behind.
A pair of wrought iron gates bar visitors from entering the Grotto which it would appear is home to toads and newts. A bronze handle in the shape of a newt on a globe added an amusing twist. At one time it would have been a cold store for the castles kitchen. Even at 36 degrees in August the air around the doorway was cool. One wonders how cold it was deep inside the grotto.
A low boundary wall overlooks a substantial drop to the area immediately below and from where there are stunning views across the roof tops of Heidelberg, the river Neckar valley, to the Rhine rift valley and the Vosges Mountains in France.
For an additional €5.50 (2019) you can travel the final stage of the funicular – make sure you get on the correct carriage! This will take you to stage 2 which is included in the ticket and has an exit if you wish to walk down the hill. Alternatively with your special Historiche R erm ticket you can travel to the top of the third stage. Frankly, the carriage is a little rickety and at times it seemed to struggle to maintain forward momentum – great if you like a white knuckle ride wondering if the cable is fraying at some point. Of course it was not and the old lady of Heidelberg reached the top station albeit with a huff and a smokeless puff and a groan – could she be sixty too?
With the exception of a spectacular view, there is little to see at the Station Molkenkur. However, it is the easy beginning for a long walk down the woodland back to the city.
If you like little memento’s, take a 5 cent coin and 1 Euro. There is a little machine just past the café which will squash the 5 cent into an oblong.
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You are probably wondering why we were nearly arrested? That comes next…..
Claudia Bow 
Interesting post, would like to visit Heidelberg.
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